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Damaraland, Namibia: where ‘each day lasts 100 hours’20 Jan 4:00am

Damaraland, Namibia: where ‘each day lasts 100 hours’

The Guardian
Pico Iyer’s biggest holiday challenge used to be ‘filling the days till they burst’. But nine days in the desert of Namibia with nothing much to do was a liberating experience I walked out into the desert just as the sun was beginning to show above the mountains. I’d been advised not to step out of my bungalow in north-west Namibia while it was dark: there were lion tracks only a few steps away. But now a spotted eagle owl was flapping out of the bushes and beating its broad white wings across the dry emptiness in front of me, and the world was reborn and golden. A guide at the lodge, Johan, had offered to take me on a walk across the red-dirt silence, and as we set off in the early light, he pointed out rhino tracks in the dust, and a path laid out by a mountain zebra. “Try not to step close to a rock,” he said – the landscape was nothing but rock – “there could be a horned adder underneath it.”
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